by Roderick Conway Morris

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Travel & Life

Venice Picture Library
Fondamenta delle Zattere, Venice 1973 © Sarah Quill, all rights reserved

Albania: Butrint
Lost Horizon
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 23 February 1996
One of the most tantalizing views of the Cold War era was across the narrow strait that divides Corfu and the wilder scenery of southern Albania.

Ariccia: Palazzo Chigi
A Palazzo in the Castelli Romani Unveils its Secrets
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 28 October 1995
Stepping inside the palazzo is like passing through a time warp.

Bari: St. Nicholas
Saint of All Ages
Roderick Conway Morris (The Spectator) 1 March 2007
In 1087, a raiding party of nearly 100 sailors from Bari carried off Nicholas's putative remains.

Bergamo
The Beauties of Bergamo
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 12 June 1998
The prosperity of the leading families allowed them to spend lavishly on the arts, leaving the city with an enviable architectural and artistic heritage.

Berkoff, Steven
The Performance-Driven Steven Berkoff
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 7 December 1993
Berkoff's febrile, high-voltage but exactly measured stage productions normally demand weeks of rehearsal and preparation to create their pyrotechnic effects.

Bressanone (Brixen)
An Ancient Prince-bishopric and Cultural Landmark
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 16 October 1998
The most ancient city in the South Tirol, Bressanone is the most beautiful and best preserved of the larger towns in the province.

Cars: Cambustion
Cambustion Uses Brainpower to Beat Auto Emissions: In Search of the Cleaner Car
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 13 May 1996
Hydrocarbons, largely unburned fuel, are a major cause of air pollution.

Fashion: Predicting Trends
Trend Prophets
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 16 October 1998
Fashion is so subject to, well, fashion that the idea of setting up a think-tank to predict what will be happening to it in the future might seem a doomed enterprise.

Ferrara
The Este and After
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 28 May 1993
The Este family ruled this walled city on the plain, where the Po flows into the Adriatic, for nearly 350 years.

Gardens: From Babylon to Rome
Fount of All Gardens
Roderick Conway Morris (The Spectator) 1 August 2007
All the great antique civilisations took an interest in cultivating their own gardens.

Genoa
Rediscovering Genoa
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 4 July 1997
Genoa's cityscape has been formed by its position on a strip of shore hemmed in by an amphitheater of steeply rising mountains.

Grado, Italy
A Secessionist on the Borders of Empire
Roderick Conway Morris (The Spectator) 13 August 2008
The Auchentallers did much to put Grado on the map.

Italian churches
Italy Freezes Decision over State-owned Churches
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 20 April 1996
With a host of other problems in the forefront, arts issues were hardly expected to get a look during the build-up to Italy's parliamentary elections this weekend.

Italian Film Industry
How Italian Cinema came to be Dominated by the Dubbers
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 18 December 1992
To dub or not to dub has never been the question in Italy - or not until now.

Italian Traffic Regulations
Where All Roads Lead to Confusion
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 9 April 1993
Italy's traffic regulations go back at least as far as Julius Caesar's 'Lex viaria'.

Italian Women
'Firefly': A Homemade Arts Magazine
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 1 June 1996
It was a rule that the subscribers, who.were scattered all over Italy, should also be contributors.

Italy: Benetton
The Best Possible Taste
Roderick Conway Morris (Spectator) 15 February 1992
The Benettons are such stuff as the Italian economic miracle was made of.

Italy: Foreign Travellers
The Enchantments of Italy: 17th to 20th Century
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 12 May 2001
Lamartine declared Italy to be 'not a country but a mirage'.

Italy: Shopping Laws
When in Italy, Keep That Receipt!
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 10 April 1992
The Guardia di Finanza are not the most popular of Italy's public servants.

Lago d'Iseo: Monte Isola
An Enchanted Isle in a Lombardy Lake
Roderick Conway Morris (New York Times) 19 June 1994
"I am now in a place the most beautifully romantic I ever saw in my life," wrote Lady Mary Wortley Montagu in 1746.

Lake Como: Bellagio
Strolling Around Lovers' Lake
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 21 March 1997
'I know of no other spot more obviously blessed by heaven,' wrote Franz Liszt.

Lake Garda: Il Vittoriale
A Bid for Immortality
Roderick Conway Morris (New York Times) 12 May 1996
'Il Vittoriale' is principally devoted to the memory of D'Annunzio and what he styled his 'glorious defeats'.

Landmark Trust
Landmarks Where You Can Stay
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 27 March 1992
The Trust now has over 120 buildings of all types and periods to let.

Lewis, Norman
The Travel Writer's Travel Writer
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 6 September 1994
The lack of anything dramatic in my personality and appearance has stood me in good stead.'

Mantua
Monumental Mantua
Roderick Conway Morris (New York Times) 14 June 1992
Mantua rises up on the plain of eastern Lombardy, an implausible, water-girt mirage of rearing walls, domes, spires and towers.

Mantua: Tazio Nuvolari Museum
The Flying Mantuan's Very Own Musuem
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 24 July 1992
His career was punctuated by Indiana Jones-style feats.

McCullin, Don
Unreasonable Behaviour
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 30 October 1997
For two decades Don McCullin photographed almost every major conflict in the world.

Messner, Rheinhold
An Adventurer's Life: Always New Heights
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 2 February 1995
'I often feel afraid before I go.'

Munich
Virtual Olympics Centre
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 22 April 1999
The cross-country biking sequence is a regular bone-shaker.

Munich: Beerhalls and Museum Cafés
Beyond the Hofbrauhaus
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 24 January 1997
Not all Bavarians want to spend all their spare time imbibing heroic quantities of their admittedly excellent brews.

Munich: Unusual Museums
Of Chamber Pots and Potatoes
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 6 June 1997
Free admission for over 99-year-olds accompanied by their parents.'

Naples: Home-made Postage Stamps
Long Live the Italian Post!
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 21 February 1992
"The others sometimes just drew their stamps directly onto the card or envelope."

Natanson, Joseph
An Artist's Life
Roderick Conway Morris (Daily Telegraph) 22 November 2003
During the making of Satyricon, Federico Fellini turned excitedly to him declaring: "Pure Fellini". The tall, imposing Pole corrected him courteously: "No, pure Natanson."

Parma
Correggio in Parma
Roderick Conway Morris (The Spectator) 22 October 2008
Born Antonio Allegri in Correggio near Parma in around 1489, he spent his entire career in this out-of-the-way region.

Parma
Gastronomy, Art and Architecture
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 8 June 1999
Parma has a great deal else to offer beyond Parma ham and cheese.

Parma: Ham
Parma Goes in Search of New Markets
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 10 April 1995
It is only in the past decade that scientists have taken an interest in how it is made.

Pienza, Italy
Papal Travels
Roderick Conway Morris (The Spectator) 14 September 2006
'For the first time he seemed to see again a familiar world and a habitable country'.

Pompeii
Saving Pompeii from Decay
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 18 April 1998
The antique ghost town is the most popular single attraction in Italy.

Remondini Museum
Saints on the Move
Roderick Conway Morris (The Spectator) 7 November 2007
Ironically, some of Remondini's cheapest mass-produced prints are now the rarest.

Rome: Lateran Historical Museum
Papal Pageantry
Roderick Conway Morris (Spectator) 3 August 1992
Here is the flag of the last papal vessel, the steam-corvette 'Immaculate Conception'.

Rome: Shopping
A discriminating shopper's guide
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 10 January 2003
Whether Rome's mile-long central thoroughfare, Via del Corso, begins or ends at Piazza Venezia is a moot point.

Rome: Sixtus V
Sixtus V's Rome
Roderick Conway Morris (Spectator) 10 April 1993
As a builder and town planner, Sixtus ushered in the age of Baroque in Rome.

Rome: The Appian Way
Strolling Back Into Rome's Past Along the Appian Way
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 20 February 1998
The Via Appia was the gateway to Greece and the Empire in the East.

Rome: the Corso
Fountains and Festivities on the Corso, a Street 2,000 Years Long
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 30 July 1999
No street in the world concentrates as much ancient history and present-day activity along a continuous strip as Rome's Via del Corso, familiarly known simply as il Corso.

Rome: Via Veneto
La Dolce Vita Revisited
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 27 May 1994
Via Veneto had, by the late 1950s, become not so much a thoroughfare as an ongoing celebrity soap opera.

Rome: Villa Borghese
At Rome's heart, Villa Borghese
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 28 February 2004
Until 1902 Villa Borghese, which has a circumference of nine kilometers, was still the Borghese family's private property.

Ronchey, Alberto
The Man in Italy's Cultural Hot Seat
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 24 October 1992
"No country in the world has so many cultural treasures per square kilometre."

San Vincenzo al Volturno
A Monastic Pompeii Reveals its Riches
Roderick Conway Morris (Daily Telegraph) 16 September 1991
The first ancient frescoes came to light when a monk crashed through some rotten floorboards.

Siena: Ancient Water System
Subterranean Siena
Roderick Conway Morris (Traveller) 1 March 1997
Below the city's steep hills and winding streets, there lies an extraordinary network of hidden thoroughfares: the 'bottini', which until recently provided the only supply of running water.

Siena: Palio
Mysteries of the Palio
Roderick Conway Morris (The Times Magazine) 2 July 1994
The first horse to reach the finish, with or without a rider, is the winner.

Siena: Palio
Palio vs. Animal Rights
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 16 August 1993
This colorful race was already well-established by the early 12th century.

Siena: Santa Maria della Scala
Siena's New Cultural Citadel
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 18 November 1995
'Lo spedale', has been for over 900 years this Tuscan hill-top town's principal treatment and charitable center.

South Tirol: Oswald Von Wolkenstein
Troubadour Country in the South Tirol
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 15 September 1995
At the tender age of ten, he was entrusted to a knight errant.

South Tyrol: Autonomy Package
Arrivederci, Italia
Roderick Conway Morris (Spectator) 8 August 1992
'This is a model for a peaceful solution, not a model for autonomy.'

South Tyrol: Iceman and Ancient Transhumance
In the Footsteps of the Iceman
Roderick Conway Morris (Traveller) 1 October 1998
The Iceman's unprecedented state of preservation was thanks to the fact that his body was freeze-dried by the sub-zero temperature and the powerful action of the wind.

South Tyrol: Oswald von Wolkenstein Ritt
A Race Apart
Roderick Conway Morris (Traveller) 1 March 1998
A traveller passing through the Italian South Tyrol one Sunday afternoon in June and coming by chance on Schloss Proesels could be forgiven for thinking they had stumbled on some bizarre survival of the Age of Chivalry.

South Tyrol: Val Gardena
Alpine Valley Votes against Hosting Ski Championships
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 25 September 1992
'More cars, more people, more skilifts. No thanks!'

St Malo: Etonnants Voyageurs Literary Festival
'Anciens Astrolabes' at St Malo
Roderick Conway Morris (Times Literary Supplement) 29 July 1994
That elusive, gripping, often dazzling genre, 'le travel writing' was on everybody's lips.

Urbino
Gem of the Renaissance
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 21 August 1998
If the ideal Renaissance court ever existed it was surely the one presided over by Federico II da Montefeltro in the second half of the 15th century.

Urbino: Library of Federico di Montefeltro
The Library of Federico
Roderick Conway Morris (Times Literary Supplement) 6 June 2008
Federico expressed his reverence for the contents of his codices by spending large sums on their embellishments.

Venetian Islands
For Rent
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 20 January 1995
The island auctions are open to all comers.

Venice: Carnival
The Venice Carnival and Goldoni
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 12 February 1993
Venice's exaggeratedly-long Carnival was inseparably bound up with the theater season.

Venice: Collapse of Campanile 1902
'Where it was, as it was'
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 28 July 1992
"The colossus collapsed in on itself, sinking down, down, down and swallowing itself up..."

Venice: Fenice Fire 1996
A Tragedy of Errors
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 10 February 1996
The patient was killed by the cure.

Venice: Film Festival 75th Anniversary
Lions on the Lido
Roderick Conway Morris (Times Literary Supplement) 7 September 2007
Venice is generally credited with being the mother of all film festivals.

Venice: Islamic Influences
Lessons from the East
Roderick Conway Morris (The Spectator) 15 August 2007
Venetian dialect became peppered with words of Greek, Arabic and Turkish origin.

Venice: Lagoon
Conservation
Roderick Conway Morris (Traveller) 1 June 1998
Today's lagoon covers an area of over 540 square kilometres; only 29 square kilometres is land in the form of its archipelago of islands.

Venice: Life on the Lagoon
'In Barca'
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 7 June 1996
Venice's regattas go back at least to the 13th century.

Venice: Musical Foundling Hospitals
Hark, the orphan angels sing
Roderick Conway Morris (Spectator) 21 December 1991
The Ospedali were founded over the centuries to confront varying social crises.

Venice: Nicolao Costume Atelier
When Life's a Carnival, Venetian Tailor is the Designer
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 4 February 1997
'I think I must be the only tailor in Venice who isn't the son or daughter of a tailor or dressmaker.'

Venice: Pitura Freska
Pitura Freska Reggae Band
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 3 July 1992
The band was founded in the early eighties by self-styled "Sir Oliver" Skardy.

Venice: San Servolo
Venice's Island of Revived Crafts
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 18 September 1993
Many ancient craft skills looked in danger of imminent extinction.

Venice: Shopping
A discriminating shopper's guide
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 4 October 2002
Beyond masks and glass.

Venice: Vogalonga
Venice's 'Long Row'
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 8 May 1992
The first two Vogalongas were, if anything, a little too spectacular.

Wine
Italian Growers to Plant in China and India
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 30 July 1996
Zonin are the largest privately owned wine producers in Italy.

Wine: The Ancient World
In Vino Veritas
Roderick Conway Morris (Daily Telegraph) 6 May 1991
'If you drink water you will never produce a work of art.'

Wurzburg
Art, Wine and Charity
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 3 May 1996
In the Middle Ages Franconia was easily Germany's most important wine-producing region.

Wyn, Hedd
Celebrating a Gifted Welsh Poet
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 25 August 2012
To win the chair at the annual National Eisteddfod cultural festival is the highest honor to which any Welsh poet can aspire. It has only once been awarded posthumously, and that was in September 1917, to Ellis Humphrey Evans, better known by his bardic name, Hedd Wyn.

Zeffirelli, Franco
Zeffirelli and the making of 'Sparrow'
Roderick Conway Morris (International Herald Tribune) 31 December 1993
Zeffirelli betrays no signs of slowing down.